Russ' Do It Yourself Home Workshop

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Archive for March, 2020

Honda Clarity Decklid Spoiler Installation 08F10-TRT-100

Posted by Russell Wright on March 22, 2020

So our task today is to install this decklid spoiler on a Honda Clarity PHEV.  The installation instructions were acquired from College Hills Honda.  I recommend you use the official instructions along with this pictorial guide, as a picture is worth a thousand words!

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Remove the trim around the trunk lid hinges.

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This is done on both sides.

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There is a single fastener on the back of each hinge that needs to be removed.  They pull out and it’s possible you will break them, so you might need replacements.

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The hinge covers snap together.  Use your fingers to pry them apart and they should pull apart. 

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Remove the center trim cover by popping it off.  There are five fasteners and the upper corners holding it on.

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Fastener location.

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time to remove the pull handle.  Pry the cover.

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Once the cover has been opened, you can see the latch holding the handle in place.

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There is a single clip that can be released and then the handle tilts down to remove.

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This shows the back end of the handle.

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Now that the handle has been removed, you can begin removing the main trim piece.

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More shots showing the handle detail.

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Fastener locations on the main cover.  They are the “pop” variety.  Pull firmly with your hand as close to the fastener as possible.

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In the middle of the trunk there is a clip that holds the two trunk springs.  You can release the clip and open it up so the right spring can be moved when you “unload” it so you can remove it.  This clip merely keeps the springs from flopping around in the middle of the trunk.

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Due to the extra weight of the spoiler, a new right spring is installed.  There is a special tool for removing the spring, but I bet you don’t have one!  Neither do I.  I grabbed it with some channel lock pliers.  Twist downward away from the trunk hinge to pull it out of its clip and move it to the left.  The spring clip and the pad it rests on are held in place by the force of the spring.

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The left side of the right trunk spring is hooked through some holes which hold it in place.  When you “unload” the spring you can shift it to the left to remove it.

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Here’s another shot of the spring after I put it back.  You can see some of the marks from the pliers where I grabbed it.

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This shows the removal of the deck trim.  This is what you’ll attach the new spoiler to.  There are four bolts that are removed from the inside.  I believe they are 8mm. 

Note that the fastener in the middle is released from the backside by pinching and, when you do, the trim will fall off (assuming you’ve popped off the other fasteners), so be careful! 

The electrical connector is more easily disconnected after the trim is loose and you remove it from its grommet retainer.  Trying to disconnect it from inside will only result in sheet metal cuts.

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Here’s the connector you will disconnect.  It’s easy once you have access to it!

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This shows the fasteners on the right side of the deck trim.

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The whole point of getting the deck trim off is so you can fasten the new spoiler to it.  You’ll need to drill, cut and file, so be prepared!

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The first step is to create the cutout that will allow access to the “tie-wrap” or “zip tie” style retainer system.  Not sure why they didn’t just use some self-locking nuts instead of this nylon “zip tie” retainer.

Use the drill template to mark the holes.  You flip it over to mark them on the other side.  It’s a very nice template!

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Mark and use a sharp instrument to prepare for drilling.  Similar to how you would use a pin punch on a piece of metal for your pilot hole.

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Start by drilling your pilot holes.

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The instructions call for 3mm, 6mm, 8mm and then 10mm drill bits, but I found once it got big enough the larger drill bit was dangerously trying to grab the plastic and I felt that more filing would be a better solution.

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The “hole” (whole) idea is to make an access port so you can get to the deck lid spoiler nylon fasteners that feed through the other holes you will be drilling.  It doesn’t have to be perfect, as no one will ever see it.

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You do this on both sides (duh!).

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There is another template you place on the deck lid trim piece you removed to mark the locations of the holes you will drill in the deck lid trim.

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Then you drill the bigger hole.  You end up with a 10mm hole, which is roughly 25/64” or 13/32”.  A tiny bit bigger ain’t gonna’ make no difference.

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Again, the idea is these nylon “zip tie” fasteners will feed through these holes.

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And here’s where they end up.  I don’t have a picture of the fastener installed, but the instructions clearly show them. 

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I also didn’t see any need to clip off the end since it never shows.

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Note that the trim is fastened with lots of sticky, double-sided tape, as well as the two nylon fasteners on the ends.  Make sure if you have it in proper position before you remove the tape covers.  You’ll likely only get one chance!

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Use the template to put masking tape in the correct locations to mark the edges of where the spoiler should be placed.  Perform some tests BEFORE removing any of the tape cover. 

Once you have the spoiler installed, you need to firmly press along its length to set the adhesive on the double-sided tape.  The instructions specify a roller, but I used a towel as a cover and lots of hand pressure along its length.

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After you get the trim installed you will then place the plastic retainers on their “zip tie” ends.  Pull snugly, but don’t overdo it!

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Now you can take your pile of trim pieces and put them back.  It’s easier putting them back, IMHO.

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