Repairing a Leaking Hayward DE-6000 Pool Filter
Posted by Russell Wright on September 5, 2010
I’ve noticed that I’ve been having to add water to the pool a lot lately. Well, it’s been over 100 degrees for several weeks, so that makes sense, right? Well, after paying attention to the pool equipment yesterday, I noticed water leaking from beneath the pool filter. Since I was planning on cleaning it anyway, I took it apart as I normally do a couple of times a year for a thorough cleaning.
Inspecting the bottom of the tub, I noticed a stress fracture as the source of the leak.
Checking around for a replacement bottom housing, I found that part number DEX2400AIT is no longer available. I guess after 10 1/2 years they want to sell you a new filter. Well mine is still in good condition. It even has all the original elements with no tears or holes!
Leslies pool supply has a special right now. I can get an equivalent filter for only $799 less 15%! I can shop around online and find one in the $500-$600 range. Ouch! Did I tell you I’m cheap? So, I decided to attempt a repair. It is fiberglass, after all, and fiberglass gets repaired all the time.
I went to Lowes and found some repair epoxy that stated it was suitable for fiberglass. It cost about $15.00. I probably could’ve lived with purchasing the $5 amount in the syringe, but what the heck, it was a lot cheaper than $600 or $700.
After removing the lower pipe from the tub, you could also see the crack from the inside. I took some 50 or 80 grit sandpaper and roughed up the area and blew out the dust and debris. Then I mixed up some of the two-part epoxy.
I applied the epoxy patch in a highly unprofessional manner, using a plastic putty knife that I purchased for 84 cents. I allowed the epoxy to cure overnight, as I had some additional work to do on the concrete slab the filter sits on.
Due to the excess water from the leak, the slab had sunk down on one side, so I used a 6’ long pry bar (Harbor Freight, one of my favorite stores) and had my wife pry up while I tamped sand underneath. Appears to have worked well, as it is now much more level with the other end.
I assembled the filter and fired it up and, so far, it is water tight again. I’ll let you know if it continues to hold.
Savings for this project:
- $799 less 15% for new filter $679 + 0.0825 sales tax = $735 to replace the filter
- $15 for patching epoxy
- $14 for 120 lbs. of sand (only used $7 worth)
- $735 – $15 – $14 = $706
Update 2012-01-08
I noticed it was leaking again, except this time it was leaking around the seal area at the midsection of the filter body. Externally, I could see a crack that was forming around the midsection. After taking it apart, I could see the area that was leaking.
I sanded the entire area with 80 grit sandpaper and purchased some marine epoxy from Home Depot. This stuff says it will actually cure underwater. I mixed some up on a piece of cardboard and used a popsicle stick to apply it.
Continuing with my highly unprofessional repair, I spread it across the entire area that had a stress line showing. The actual leaking area was only about 4 inches in length.
You can see my previous repair has yellowed, but it is still holding!
I’m going to check out a stainless steel filter body that I found on Craigslist. If it connects to my backwash filter and accepts the same filter elements (which I believe it does), I’ll probably replace the fiberglass body with a stainless steel body.
Russ' Do It Yourself Home Workshop 
Richard Hart said
I have teh same problem and have been patching up stress cracks on the lower assembly DEX2400AIT
Howe long has your epoxy lasted now?
Do you have th emodel number that replaces the DEX2400AIT.
R/Richard
Russell Wright said
I went to my local pool store and they told me they could no longer get the lower assembly. My epoxy has lasted about 3 months, so far…no issues.
David Pinyon said
do you have to take it apart from piping? or can you fix it without doing that?
Russell Wright said
I took it completely apart from the piping. It’s easy to remove and, when you drain all the water out and remove the filter elements, it’s fairly light and easy to work on. Just consider it a “spring” cleaning.
jim said
A year later I find this Post.
I have an unused DEX2400AIT Filter Body for sale @ $300 if anyone is interested.
I also have the matching unused DEX2400BT Filter Head for sale @ $150.
$400 for both.
Greg said
Do you have the DEX2400AIT filter body?
I need a replacement.
email ggifford09@gmail.com
Thanks
Greg
Russell Wright said
Not I!
MH said
What type of epoxy did you use? Do remember the brand?
Russell Wright said
Not exactly sure of the brand, but readily available at Home Depot or Lowes. I would be this Loctite marine expoxy would work fine. http://www.lowes.com/pd_40308-69-1405604_0__?productId=3203639&Ntt=epoxy&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Depoxy&facetInfo=
Eric said
I had a crack in the upper part of the body and tried an automotive fiberglass repair kit – sanded everything down and applied the fiberglass along with the matting. Nothing worked. Finally I tried a tire repair kit and applied the patches to the inside and outside of the body – used a sealant instead of the supplied glue. It’s been holding for six months and no signs of wear.
Russell Wright said
I am really glad to hear this. I’m going to have to repair mine again, as it doesn’t seem to be holding. Seems like treating it like a leaking tire is a better way to repair it.
I’ll try it!
Richard Olson said
I have a similar cracking problem only it is with the filter head (top section). I would be interested in purchasing your used filter head if you decide to replace your unit.
JP said
i have the same problem for my equipment in Dallas. However, the Epoxy you show is actually NOT good for these repairs. I actually used that same exposy the first time and it failed the next day. It did not bond at all to the fiberglass filter housing and the dried expoxy cracked once pressure was put back into the filter housing.
The BEST and I mean the BEST way to do these patches is by using a Bondo brand or similar fiberglass repair kit from your local AutoZone or O’Reilly Auto Parts or Pep Boys or similar auto parts stores. I think I paid $20 which is more than the other epoxies but it works.
The reason is the housing is fiberglass and all the other expoxies do NOT really bond to fiberglass although they claim they do.
With the Bondo style fiberglass repair kits they come with fiberglass mesh that you push down into the 2 part mix after you rub it over the crack. However, the main advantage to this style repair kit is that their 2 part expoxy is design to actually bond with fiberglass. *** the key is the fiberglass mesh that is able to reduce or eliminate stress cracks on the fiberglass patch after it dries once you put pressure back into the filter housing. It is the water pressure that cracks the cheaper epoxy kits.
what i found it is the best way is to make sure you do your repair at least 1 to 2 inches beyond the crack on all sides. since the cracks are linear and maybe 1 to 2 inches you want to cut a fiberglass mesh piece that is around 2 inches wide and several inches long. then make sure you mix enough epoxy up to smear on the crack and give enough to push in the fiberglass mesh. the mix dries pretty quick but you have around 5 minutes to work with it.
make sure you get your mix right. if you put too much hardner in from the small white tube the mix gets rubbery. you want it to be spreadable. you can mold the fiberglass mesh around the bottom pc that sticks up. just push the mesh down and form it around any pc that sticks up so you can try to stop the crack from spreading.
some of the fiberglass repair kits say to drill a small hole at the end of every crack so that it stops the crack from spreading. if you do that just make sure you get the mix down into the small hole.
Russell Wright said
I’m going to have to try this because mine failed catastrophically the other day. 😦
AR said
JP,Is the fiberglass is placed inside or outside the tank?
Greg said
I’m looking for a replacement Filter body DEX2400AIT
anyone have one laying around?
ggifford09@gmail.com
theshep913sh Shepard said
How did the Automotive fiberglass patch work? I am having a similar issue.
Russell Wright said
Ended up bursting, because it was too far gone. If I was to attempt this again, I would figure out how to put some small, stainless screws on the rim to hold it together vertically, as the fiberglass doesn’t have that kind of strength (apparently). Finally purchased a new filter, but I got two or three extra years out of it.
theshep913sh Shepard said
We went ahead and tried to patch with both auto fiberglass, and sheet metal and screws. wouldn’t even hold long enough to get the filtration running. Once it started to pressurize, it basically burst again. Ended up buying a new filter unit and I am thoroughly amazed at how much clearer my water is now. I guess it was time.
David said
I had a crack in the dome of my filter container. Removed dome and let it dry completly….even used hair dryer before patching. Used a fiber glass patch with the epoxy that had to be mixed. Drilled two (2) small holes both ends of crack. Applied fiber glass mesh and epoxy on both inside dome and also on exterior. Theis was seven (7) years ago and is fine today. I inspect area 2-3 times a year when cleaning unit.
Russell Wright said
Wish I had done what you did! Great work!
John said
I just repaired a crack in my DE filter canister. Before this repair, I used epoxy applied over the crack with no luck. Over time the epoxy would peal away and start leaking again. I used a sharp chisel to chip away and remove the old epoxy fix. Then l used a 1/16 drill bit and drilled small holes all the way down the crack. When I finished drilling the holes, I used the bit to router from hole to hole, until I completely exposed the crack through the canister. Then I mixed some J B Weld and applied to the now exposed crack and let the glue seep through the crack to the other side and while drying, I smoothed it out on each side. If I ever had to do it again, I would use the fast drying J B Weld, because I had problems with the slow drying dripping through. I can just tell that this J B Weld repair is solid and will never leak again. It’s been one month and still no leaking and I don’t ever expect it to.
Sandy said
Great Stuff guys. I’ve just got into the pool business after moving to a new (to me) home, which had a neglected pool… After a new pentair 2hp pump, total drain (30,000 gal) and refill, tile repair, 4 new cartridge filers, filter lower manifold, salt chlorinator system, spa blower repair and complete plumbing do over I finally fired up everything. Wait old Laars 400,000 btu heater, manifold leaks…. replumb and bypass the heater (I’ll work on it later) things looked great for about 24 hrs then the obsolete? Hayward C4000 filter starts leaking!! Will it ever end?? I’ve got a crack in the lower shell almost identical to your picture. I’m going to try the repair and pray, as I am now a poorer man…. Whose idea was this pool anyway?
Wish me luck….
Thanks a lot ..
Phil said
I had same hairline crack/leak around the mold extrusion in the base housing. I had tried epoxy putty (it cracked) and marine caulk (it peeled off)…so far the Loctite Marine Epoxy is holding up well! Thanks!
Shane said
I have a crack/leak in the bottom of my filter, but can’t see it from inside due to the lower pipe covering it. I’m not sure how to remove the lower pipe to get to it. Do I have to unscrew the external outlet coupling to remove the pipe? I’ve tried but it on pretty tight and requires a large wrench. Is this how to take the pipe off and any suggestions on getting this coupling off?
Russell Wright said
Yup, think you are right. I ended up replacing the whole thing as the cracking just continued to get worse until the whole thing came apart in the middle due to the failure of the fiberglass shell.
AR said
JP,Is the fiberglass is placed inside or outside the tank?
Wayne Applegate said
I have the same issue with the leak. I crack on inside and outside on bottom. How did you remove the 90 deg. fitting from the inside ? The crack is under the pipe.
Nick said
Well guys, another one bites the dust… ([poor choice of words since its flooding) my C4000 started leaking this year, pulled it, saw the stress cracks, did the sand and epoxy PLUS went with silicone patch on the inside (yep, did the under side, then the inside)
this afternoon, ONE day later, there is water accumulating beneath the DEX2400… I also have searched Ebay and Craiglist to no avail. guess its time for a replacement. yea, i have 8 filters stacked up. doubt if anything out there will use that model…
Rich said
Wow…. It all looks and sounds all familiar… I too tried to fix with epoxy first from the outside, then inside and out with no luck. Going to try one last time with fiber glass next weekend. Plan to cut out the inside pipe which I can glue back in with a coupling after the glass hardens up. New Filter and refitting the piping sounds expensive. Looking for a new base unit at a reasonable price.
katiecholls said
Thanks for sharing useful information .It will be very helpful for us.
James R Ellis said
Very helpful!!